Friday, September 18, 2009

Potatoes, Pubs, and Possum

I am in Atherton, living at a traveller's lodge with 50 other people from all around the world! All are here to work the farms, as Australia grants a second-year visa to backpackers who work 88 days on a local farm. I am not sure that is what I am after, but I wanted the experience of working on a farm nonetheless...so here I am.

Atherton is a small country town in the Tablelands, beautiful lands with small mountains, rolling hills and miles and miles of farm land. After a long day's work on the potato fields, nothing is more satisfying than watching the sun set over the mountaintops as the tractor pulls us back to the shed.

I have been working on a potato harvester. Seriously. It is the dirtiest, most filthy job I have ever had; I come home COVERED in orange soot and find dirt in the strangest of places even after I've had a good shower. Atop the harvester, we are six girls, pulling the bad/rotten potatoes off the conveyor belt. It is pretty mindless work and makes for a boring, eight hour day, but it is satisfying. I mean, I never thought I'd be doing this! On my harvester are two French girls, a German, a girl from Israel, and one from Ireland. It makes for interesting breaks, hanging out and eating our sandwiches, talking about cultural differences and just life in general. It is truly the most amazing part of travel--I can never get enough of other people's stories.

In addition to potatoes, I have been working the local country pub. This is WAY different than my pub experience in Sydney--much more laidback and, well, local. The bar has been in the owner's family for generations, dating back to the 1800s, where boxing matches were held in its common area. It was used as a base for the Australian soldiers in World War II and is just oozing in personality and history. We have a great time on Friday nights, dancing to the loud music and hanging out with the local rugby players.

I have made some good friends here and will be sad to go, but I feel compelled to keep moving and see something new. I have met people who have been here for six months because they got "stuck" in what feels comfortable here; I don't want that to happen so I'll probably leave next week.

Until then, I will enjoy this unique experience, cooking Mexican feasts in the backyard for 30 house mates, learning Korean, and chasing opossum out of my room in the middle of the night.

Tuesday, September 8, 2009

Brush with Death Episode Two




After the bike/snake episode, you would think I'd already had my dose of danger in Australia. But brush with death episode two came on a tour that I took into the Atherton Tabletops. Absolutely stunning lands, we visited breathtaking waterfalls, swam in crater lakes and rivers home to amethystines (Australia's version of the anaconda), learned about the rainforest, mountain biked, canoed, sang, tasted Vegemite for the first time (awful!!!) and slept in a quaint lodge in the middle of nowhere. It was fabulous.

On the trip, I must brag, I spotted TWO platypus in their natural habitat! This is such a feat because the platypus is a very shy creature and 92% of Australians have never even seen one! It was so much smaller than I thought, but so darling and cute!

The brush with death came on our canoe trip to Lake Tinaroo, where our guide Matt popped onto shore to help pull up our canoes and an inland taipan came surging at him, mouth open, ready to attack, as his eggs were mere feet away. In twenty years as a guide of some sort in the rainforest, Matt has only seen a taipan twice in his life and they are noted as the single most venomous snake in the world. It is very rare to see one and you know it's a bad thing when even your guide, who loves snakes, is visibly shaken by the episode. After hitting it away with a canoe paddle, Matt screamed for us to paddle away, as the snake slithered into the water, where Matt was sure it would enter our boats to attack, as it was clearly threatened and feeling very territorial. Screaming at the top of our lungs and panicked, we paddled away. After five minutes, Matt then had the audacity to ask us to get back onto that very shore and take a nature walk, assuring us that the snake had "left the area". After MUCH encouragement on his part, we reluctantly agreed, but I spent the entire walk on the lookout for any slithering creatures in the tall grass.

As if that weren't enough excitement, yesterday I dove in the Great Barrier Reef! My second dive ever (don't worry girls, no puke this time!), it was AMAZING, MAGNIFICENT, MAJESTIC, GLORIOUS, WONDERFUL. Words cannot describe the wonder that is the reef and the abundance of life that I saw yesterday, including stingrays, reef sharks, sea turtles, barracudas, clown fish (Nemo), and fish of every shape and color. It truly is a wonder of the world.

Today I head to the Atherton, where I have tentative arrangements to start working on a potato farm!!! As long as there are no inland taipans, I'll be ok!

**I have pictures but will download them at another time!

Thursday, September 3, 2009

Brush With Death Episode One

So...for those of you who don't know (which is a lot because, I know, I've been really bad about this blogging thing), I have decided to start travelling (it severely annoys me that this word can be spelled with one "l" OR two). Not that bartending wasn't great or I didn't enjoy Sydney, I just woke up one day and realized, "I came here to travel. What the hell am I doing?" I was restless and itching to see this beautiful country, so I booked a flight to Cairns.

Now, where is Cairns?, you ask...almost to the very most northern point on the Eastern coast of Australia. This way as it gets hotter (remember, we just finished winter; September 1st was their first day of spring!), I can just continue to travel down the coast towards cooler weather (not that Sydney is cool, per se, in the summer, but a heck of a lot better than the tropics!) So I am in Cairns; known for its proximity to the Great Barrier Reef, it is a very touristy town (it reminds me a lot of the Keys, except I hope not to puke on a dive trip here). There are a TON of adventure tours right up my alley...it's been hard deciding what I want to do, amongst options that include white water rafting, diving, snorkelling, sailing, visiting the rainforest, taking the world's largest skyrail, skydiving, etc. I am still deciding, but will write all about whatever adventures I choose!

So I knew this trip was blessed from the get-go when I packed up my bags, left my house in Lane Cove, walking up the giant hill with my pack to get the bus downtown to the airport, when another bus pulls up along side of me, asking me if he can give me a lift to the bus stop. (Bus drivers in Sydney are NOT known for their warmth, so I was shocked!) I didn't think I looked like I was struggling too much, but how completely generous of him to offer, so I hopped on and was up at the stop in no time; a perfect start to a great trip!

My flight was scheduled at 3:20 and got in to Cairns at 6:20. This ought to give everyone a more accurate pic of exactly how big Australia is; I always thought of it as this little island, but it is around the same size as the States--so flying from Sydney to Cairns is like flying Chicago to Florida. Weird. Anyhow, the hostel van, painted in hippie, psychedelic images, pulled up to the airport to pick me up. When I arrived at the Dreamtime Traveller's Hostel, I knew I had made a good choice...I've stayed in a lot of hostels in my day, but this ranks pretty high up there. Immediately, I was told to set my bag down and join in the Aussie BBQ that was going on; we were served kangaroo and crocodile and several salads. I befriended some Germans (there are a lot here!) and they loved practicing English with me. Then began the fire show...yes, the fire show. At the hostel. Wow. Three complete and total hippies got out their fire rings and started dancing around to crazy music, which of course included Pink. Have I mentioned that all of Australia is OBSESSED with Pink...no clue why. Anyhow, they danced for a good 45 minutes. It was totally casual, with our lawn chairs and benches forming a ring around them, only feet from their balls of fire. After the show, there were lessons if you wanted to learn (for free!) and also you could try playing the digiridoo (sp?), the aboriginal music stick.

This morning, I went for a long run along the Esplanade, admiring the tropic mountains, looming in the background, the mist of the morning settling in around their valleys, the Pacific to my side. Then the manager Chris helped me to make some decisions about possible tour options and suggested I rent a bike (I told him I wanted adventure and exercise!) So off I went to the little bike shop, where David hooked me up with mountain gear. I had originally planned a short little jaunt to the Botanic Gardens and back, but somehow let David convince me to ride out into the mountains to see the Crystal Cascades. All he gave me was a hand-drawn map, a helmet, and a bike, saying I'd have no problem. Two hours later and I hadn't even started the climb, winding in and out of little tropical villages and interesting tropical neighborhoods in which I suddenly began to be aware of the color of my skin, seeing as I had not seen any whites for miles. Thankfully, I had a bike and FINALLY found the road to the Cascades...a 9 km jaunt out, and 9 km back...after what had already been at least 10. So I began the climb and it was beautiful, rolling hills and valleys becoming more and more tropical as I climbed into the jungle (legs burning from the morning run).

About halfway into the 9 km is when I had the FIRST BRUSH WITH DEATH of the trip. I was riding along, in the designated bike alley to the left (opposite side of the street remember!)when suddenly I realized there was a GIANT GREEN SNAKE two feet in front of the bike and I was going to go over it; thoughts raced in my mind how I would run over it, it would retaliate, biting me in the leg, I would be poisoned, alone, stranded in the jungle, left for dead...(yes, all this in a matter of seconds). So I swerved to avoid it, not paying attention to the camper van barreling along beside me. Honking and cussing out the windown, the van just narrowly missed me and I just barely missed the snake. So much for the Aussie mentality "they won't bother you if you don't bother them". Perhaps not, but they still may cause my death.

I finally reached the waterfalls and realized I had to walk another 2 km to even see them, a sign reading, "BEWARE: STINGING TREE. IF IN CONTACT, SEEK MEDICAL CARE IMMEDIATELY." In combo with the snake incident, I began to feel like I was certainly not in my own country anymore. Lots of people were swimming in the cascades, but I had not brought my suit, so I admired the falls and rested before my trip home.

Dying of thirst, I stopped to get a water and ask the easiest, most flat way home. What ensued was a flatter route indeed, but what must have been at least another 12-15 km ride. When I passed the airport, it was like a vaccuum of air sucking me in as the planes took off and I started to REALLY feel tired. Then I hit a pot hole and my chain came undone, so I pulled aside into a hardware store to fix it. Full of grease and near tears, a mechanic finally noticed and came over and helped me to fix it, smiling and encouraging. Helpful angel #2. At this rate, I may just find one a day!

So now I'm finally back, around 30 km later...amazing that all this has happened in two days time. I will stay in Cairns for a while and then move on to get seasonal work on the banana plantations for a while to make some extra cash (plus, who doesn't want to say they've worked on a banana farm!...ok, maybe a few of you...). Basically, I'm going where the wind blows me.

So until the next gust....